Subscriber

Joe McNamee: Michelin stars shine on Ireland's growing band of two-starred restaurants

Restaurants in Cork, Clare, Dublin, and Tipperary are recognised, with five now able to boast the treasured two Michelin stars 
Joe McNamee: Michelin stars shine on Ireland's growing band of two-starred restaurants

Vincent Crepel, whose work has earned the Castlemartyr Resort in East Cork a second Michelin star.

By all accounts, Vincent Crepel, the French chef brought to Castlemartyr Resort, in East Cork, with a brief to immediately create a Michelin two-starred restaurant, was deeply disappointed to debut last year with just one star.

However, last night he was thoroughly vindicated as he and Terre restaurant received a second.

The guide deemed him to have added whatever additional flourishes were required to bring his already exceptional combinations of classical French technique, and genuine empathy for Asian influences, to the next level.

Co-owners of the double-starred restaurant in Baltimore Co Cork, Dede at the Customs House, executive chef Ahmet Dede and maitre d' Maria Archer.  Picture: Andy Gibson
Co-owners of the double-starred restaurant in Baltimore Co Cork, Dede at the Customs House, executive chef Ahmet Dede and maitre d' Maria Archer.  Picture: Andy Gibson

Of six new restaurants accordingly accoladed in Britain and Ireland, Terre’s inclusion means Cork now has two two-starred restaurants.

Crepel joins Dede at the Customs House, in Baltimore, in that highly exclusive band of Irish two-starred restaurants — along with Chapter One, Liath, and Patrick Guilbaud’s, all in Dublin — and, undoubtedly, Crepel will join them in pursuing the holy grail of becoming Ireland’s first three-starred restaurant.

The identity of the three new Irish Michelin one-starred restaurants was one of the worst-kept secrets.

The Buttery at the Cashel Palace Hotel in Cashel Co Tipperary, one of the Irish culinary destinations to be given the nod by Michelin.
The Buttery at the Cashel Palace Hotel in Cashel Co Tipperary, one of the Irish culinary destinations to be given the nod by Michelin.

While a chef/restaurateur never truly knows their fate until the actual announcement, tension in the venue tends to derive from whether that fate is one, two or, even — admittedly as rare an occurrence as encountering a hen’s dentist — three stars.

Ever since Adriaan Bartels, one of the most accomplished figures in Irish hospitality, first took over as general manager at the Cashel Palace Hotel at the end of 2018, he continued to gently insist a Michelin star was not the primary goal of the luxury hotel’s flagship Bishop’s Buttery restaurant.

However, Bartels understands full well the requirements for such, having served in both Sheen Falls, Kenmare, Co Kerry, when it held a star in the 90s, and in Ardmore’s still-starred Cliff House Hotel.

Bartels told the Irish Examiner: “I love great hotels and great food, so to work in great hotels and with great chefs is a match made in heaven for me.

“There is a pressure to deliver, but that’s the challenge that makes you want to excel and it motivates you every day. And when you get positive affirmation from your guests that you have met, or exceeded, their expectations, it is worth all the hard work.”

Cashel Palace director of culinary, Stephen Hayes, was very quick to identify chef Stefan McEnteer’s potential when he first arrived as sous chef and, as McEnteer clambered up on stage as a Michelin Star winning head chef, his career is now also elevated to a whole new level.

Robbie McCauley's Homestead Cottage in Doolin, Co Clare.
Robbie McCauley's Homestead Cottage in Doolin, Co Clare.

At first glance, Homestead Cottage, in Doolin, Co Clare, might have appeared a rather left-field choice — a small and remote country venue run by a husband and wife — but the real oddity was how chef-proprietor Robbie McCauley failed to get a star during his time in Gregan’s Castle.

But McCauley’s cross-county migration along with wife and co-proprietor Sophie McCauley, who runs front of house in what is effectively a very rustic and traditional Irish cottage, would undoubtedly have piqued Michelin’s interest, as the esteemed guide is ever partial to a “good story”.

But a “good story” butters no parsnips when it comes to stars, and McCauley’s exceptional cooking is further enhanced by his complete immersion in his locality, sourcing superb produce from all over Clare.

D’Olier Street restaurant on the corner of D’Olier St and Hawkins St in Dublin, now among Ireland's Michelin-starred restaurants. Picture: Dara Mac Dónaill/The Irish Times
D’Olier Street restaurant on the corner of D’Olier St and Hawkins St in Dublin, now among Ireland's Michelin-starred restaurants. Picture: Dara Mac Dónaill/The Irish Times

A star for D’Olier Street wasn’t the greatest stretch to the imagination, as the restaurant arrived near fully-fledged with a team and concept that had coherency of ambition written all over it.

The star goes to head chef James Moore, an Australian who first met co-owner Dubliner Anthony Smith when they worked together in Dublin’s One Pico.

Moore subsequently went on to cook in top — mostly starred — restaurants in London and Vancouver, before re-uniting with Smith in New York.

When Smith, chef-owner of Dublin’s Mr Fox, and his American partner Jane Frye — now running D’Olier Street's front of house — invited Moore to join them in a gorgeous reworking of an iconic Dublin building, “the stars” were very much aligned.

When executive pastry chef Mina Pizarro came on board sporting a CV to die for — including Per Se, Daniel, and L’Appart — the team was complete.

Previously Michelin-starred Ichigo Ichie in Cork, where chef Takashi Miyazaki has decided to pivot away from starry cuisine, but whose bistro has already been awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand. Picture: Dan Linehan
Previously Michelin-starred Ichigo Ichie in Cork, where chef Takashi Miyazaki has decided to pivot away from starry cuisine, but whose bistro has already been awarded a Michelin Bib Gourmand. Picture: Dan Linehan

Initial reviews of extraordinarily pretty dishes, with equally powerful impact on the palate, were highly promising.

The ultimate “review”, of course, came on Monday night with D’Olier Street’s first star.

You’d fancy their ambition doesn’t end there.

These are exceedingly fraught times for global hospitality, not just in Ireland, and even the redoubtable Michelin model must be looking over its shoulder as to what lies ahead.

Restaurants around the world are choosing to move away from the very costly-to-operate fine dining model, so it was unlikely that Michelin were going to shed any stars last night.

The only Irish “losers” were Belfast’s Eipic, which closed just before Christmas because of financial pressures, and Cork’s Hiberno-Japanese Ichigo Ichie, with chef-patron Takashi Miyazaki deciding last December to pivot away from Michelin-starred cooking.

His decision was received with almost immediate local and national acclaim, that star near instantaneously swapped for a Michelin Bib Gourmand.

While Miyazaki is quite delighted with his newly reinvigorated restaurant, leaving behind the world of Michelin — and the amount of pressure, physical, mental, and especially financial, that comes with having to retain a star — he says he will equally always treasure that moment when his first star was announced as one of the most special days of his life.

There are now three more Irish chefs sharing that pleasure.

Read More

Michelin stars: Getting to the gold standard - and keeping it

   

more cork - news articles

Joe McNamee: Michelin stars shine on Ireland's growing band of two-starred restaurants MTU students in Cork targeted by email pranksters in 'spoofing' event
Joe McNamee: Michelin stars shine on Ireland's growing band of two-starred restaurants Family of woman missing in Cork concerned for her well-being as appeal issued 
Joe McNamee: Michelin stars shine on Ireland's growing band of two-starred restaurants Cork Airport adds two European hotspots to 2025 summer schedule 

More in this section

Palestinians, taking refuge in a UNRWA school, struggle to survive There is nothing to celebrate on this International Human Rights Day
The Mick Clifford Podcast: How long will it take to put a government together?  The Mick Clifford Podcast: How long will it take to put a government together? 
FRANCE-POLITICS-PARLIAMENT-GOVERNMENT France’s government has fallen. Here are three scenarios for what could happen next
Cookie Policy Privacy Policy Brand Safety FAQ Help Contact Us Terms and Conditions

© Examiner Echo Group Limited