Irish sweaters: the surprising truth about their wool
Dr Michelle McKeown: "Wool is a natural, biodegradable material, which makes it an excellent choice for those looking to reduce their reliance on synthetic fibres. Unlike polyester or acrylic, which are derived from fossil fuels and contribute to microplastic pollution, wool breaks down naturally at the end of its life cycle."
The iconic Irish woolly jumper is known for its warmth, intricate patterns, and deep connection to Irish heritage. But there’s a twist in the yarn — most Irish jumpers aren’t made from Irish wool.
It’s a curious paradox. Ireland, with its rolling green fields and sheep-dotted hills, seems like the perfect place for a thriving wool industry. And it’s true that Irish sheep produce plenty of wool, but instead of finding its way into traditional knitwear, most of the Irish wool ends up being exported to Britain and Europe. Here it is processed and used in various products, from carpets to upholstery.
Meanwhile, the wool that ends up in those beloved Aran sweaters and other Irish jumpers is often sourced from countries such as New Zealand or Australia, where the finer Merino wool is prized for its softness.
The coarseness of Irish wool can be traced back to the breed of sheep and the environment they live in. Most of the sheep raised in Ireland are hardy, dual-purpose breeds such as the Galway, Cheviot, and Blackface Mountain sheep. These sheep have evolved to withstand Ireland's often damp, windy, and unpredictable climate, which means their wool is designed to be resilient and protective. The fibres are thicker and coarser to provide extra warmth and durability; a necessity for sheep that spend their days grazing in Ireland's sometimes harsh conditions.
CLIMATE & SUSTAINABILITY HUB
Consumer expectations have also played a significant role in the shift away from Irish wool. Merino wool’s reputation for softness has made it the preferred choice for knitwear. The marketing behind Merino is powerful. It’s sold as the ultimate in softness and luxury, and that image has resonated with shoppers around the world. Irish wool, by contrast, has a rougher texture, which many perceive as less desirable for garments that are worn close to the skin.
However, it’s important to recognise that this preference is largely a matter of conditioning. For centuries, people wore wool that was much coarser than what we expect today, and they valued it for its durability and warmth. Irish wool, with its robust fibres, is incredibly hard-wearing and offers excellent insulation — qualities that are often overlooked in favour of the silky feel of Merino.
Another unfortunate reality is that a significant amount of Irish wool is simply discarded.
Due to the low prices offered for raw wool, many farmers find it uneconomical to sell it. The cost of shearing often outweighs the price they would receive for the wool, leading some farmers to view it as a waste product. As a result, piles of wool may end up being composted or otherwise disposed of rather than being put to productive use. This waste is not only a missed economic opportunity but also a lost chance to utilise a natural, biodegradable material that could be turned into valuable products.
Yet, there’s a growing movement to change this. As interest in sustainable fashion grows, there’s been a renewed push to embrace Irish wool for what it is — a strong, resilient, and natural material that tells the story of the Irish landscape. Some local designers and wool cooperatives are challenging the status quo, using Irish wool to create knitwear that’s not only beautiful but also authentic. These efforts, though still niche, are helping to revive a connection between the land, the sheep, and the clothes on our backs.
I don't know anything about womenswear, but I've never understood the handwringing over Aran sweaters in menswear. They are everywhere. Here are some. 🧵 https://t.co/PuEurrUCcu
— derek guy (@dieworkwear) October 5, 2024
Using Irish wool also makes sense from an environmental perspective. The carbon footprint of importing wool from the other side of the world is significant, especially when local wool is readily available. By choosing jumpers made from Irish wool, consumers can help reduce the environmental impact associated with transportation and support more sustainable farming practices.
Additionally, wool is a natural, biodegradable material, which makes it an excellent choice for those looking to reduce their reliance on synthetic fibres. Unlike polyester or acrylic, which are derived from fossil fuels and contribute to microplastic pollution, wool breaks down naturally at the end of its life cycle. Irish wool is well-suited to those who want to make environmentally conscious choices without sacrificing warmth or durability.
If we are to fully appreciate the Irish jumper for what it represents, then perhaps it’s time to rethink our relationship with Irish wool. By valuing local materials, we can support sustainable practices, reduce the carbon footprint associated with importing wool, and help ensure that the story of the Irish jumper is genuinely one of Ireland.
So, the next time you pick up an Aran jumper, take a moment to consider its origins. Choosing locally-sourced wool not only supports Irish farmers and artisans but also allows us to wear a piece of Ireland’s history, landscape, and culture. Every thread tells a story, and by valuing Irish wool, we help weave a future where tradition, sustainability, and craftsmanship come together.
