The Skin Nerd: What is microneedling, who is it for, and when should I avoid it?
The Skin Nerd: Microneedling may have been around for two decades, but it’s still one of the most in-demand cosmetic procedures...
When it comes to the quest for rejuvenated skin, countless treatments crop up regularly, promising to address the components of youth that time takes away from us.
One treatment that has been around the block for a while but continues to impress however, is microneedling.
Recently described as the second most requested cosmetic treatment (after the Brazilian Butt Lift), microneedling remains a go-to for stimulating collagen production, addressing pigmentation and promoting a more youthful, radiant complexion.
But what is microneedling – and is it as painful as it sounds?
Also known as ‘collagen induction therapy,’ microneedling uses super-fine needles to create hundreds of tiny, invisible punctures (microchannels) in the skin.
This trauma to the skin stimulates the skin’s natural wound healing processes and can lead to both increased collagen and elastin production as a result of stimulation of the TGF beta1 (growth factor).
This process is used as a treatment for those looking to reduce signs of ageing in their skin and those looking to improve the appearance of their pores. It also helps to lessen the appearance of acne scarring, improve elasticity and minimise the appearance of wrinkle depth.
Depending on what issue is being targeted, products such as peptides, hyaluronic acid and PRP (plasma rich platelets) can also be applied and penetrate into the dermis via these microchannels. With time and consistency, fine lines and scarring can appear reduced, and skin can become plumper.
All skin types can benefit from microneedling, especially those with scarring, uneven texture and fine lines, with benefits including increasing collagen, improvement in skin texture and tone, addressing acne and scarring, reducing the appearance of pores and minimising the look of wrinkles.
You may start to see effects as soon as two weeks afterwards and the effects can be long-term. Usually, after a course of microneedling, you’ll see the optimum results for up to 12 months.
Professional microneedling devices can penetrate as deep as 1mm for the face and 2mm for the body, which can create amazing results when it comes to minimising acne scarring, and improving the appearance of wrinkles, lines and pigmentation.
Microneedling can also be combined with other treatments for increased results, ‘Radiofrequency microneedling (such as Secret RF and Morpheus) is very effective for tightening of the skin by causing deep dermal modelling and inducing collagen production throughout the entire dermis,’ explains Professor Caitriona Ryan, Institute of Dermatologists, Ireland.
‘SecretPro is the combination treatment of fractionated CO2 laser and radiofrequency which can produce dramatic effects to reverse photoaging – improving skin tone, texture, tightness of photoaged skin.’
- Those who are pregnant - due to the numbing and the trauma effect.
- Those suffering from psoriasis or other skin conditions (check with your GP!)
- Those taking isotretinoin (Roaccutane, Accutane).
- Those who have MS, diabetes or other conditions that impair healing or could be affected by the sensory effect of the numbing.
- Those with keloid scarring cannot have keloid scars treated due to the synthesis of collagen which may make keloids worse.
- Those with open wounds or infections (ie. acne, cold sores, contact dermatitis) as it will spread bacteria or the virus across your face.
Whilst some may experience discomfort, microneedling is not considered painful by most.
When it comes to aftercare, you need to be careful not to allow bacteria to get near you for the first 24 - 48 hours, because the microchannels are essentially wounds.
That means being careful when you’re opening the dishwasher, keeping pets away from your visage and washing your hands before touching your face or applying skincare.
After the procedure, your skin will be a bit red and inflamed for a day or two, but there is no significant downtime, and you can resume normal skincare activities 48 hours after the procedure.
Another thing to note - microneedling shouldn’t really be considered INSTEAD of using results-driven skincare, more in conjunction.
‘An anti-ageing, collagen-building skincare regimen is essential to optimise skin tightness and texture, and should include a physical sunblock, a retinoid, Vitamin C, antioxidants and moisturisers or serums with a high content of hyaluronic acid,’ recommends Professor Caitriona.
- Elemis Pro Collagen Cleansing Balm, €62, elemis.com
- Dermalogica Pro Collagen Banking Serum, €99, theskinnerd.com
- Skingredients Skin Veg Hyaluronic Acid Hydrating Serum, €55, skingredients.com
- Kiehl's Super Multi Corrective Soft Cream, €80, boots.ie
- Avène Very High Protection Mineral Fluid SPF50+ Sun Cream, €19.12, boots.ie, theskinnerd.com and leading pharmacists.
Containing hyaluronic acid, lactic acid and glycolic acid, this ultra-light serum helps to smooth and refine skin showing the first signs of ageing.
The inclusion of lactic and glycolic acid helps to slough away dead skin cells, refining rough skin and brightening any signs of fatigue or dullness.
With a wearable, non-greasy texture, this serum is also ideal for oily skin and for layering under makeup.
Powered by mineral-rich Long Life Herb- a unique skin-strengthening superfood with more vitamins and minerals than spinach or kale, this vegan niacinamide serum dramatically improves visible signs of ageing and has been clinically proven to strengthen the skin’s barrier to help protect from external aggressors and stress.
